This is not really a new topic since every once a while this topic pops up on your favorite newspaper, magazine or online media.  I decided to copy and paste it here so that everybody, seasoned riders or newbies alike can always refer back to when they want to look some info about mountain biking.  The original article is in three parts.  You can find them here:

Beginner's guide to mountain biking, part 1
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/beginners-guide-to-mountain-biking-part-1-23675

Beginner’s guide to mountain biking, part 2
http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/beginners-guide-to-mountain-biking-part-2-24120

Beginner’s guide to mountain biking, part 3
http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/beginners-guide-to-mountain-biking-part-3-24727

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Beginner's guide to mountain biking, part 1

Have you ever wondered what equipment you would need to start mountain biking? Or even where to go? For people who love the sport, these kinds of questions are second nature. They already have all the kit and know the best venues and routes for their skill level.

What about absolute beginners though? Those of us who want to get into mountain biking, yet have no idea where to start? Sure we can ride a bike, but the second the trail starts to look anything less than flat it all gets a bit too scary.

Well, this series is for you. Over the next year we’re going to take you through all the basics, help you progress to intermediate level and then teach you some of the 'secrets' of advanced level mountain biking. No longer will you find yourself standing in a bike shop wondering what everyone’s talking about!

Lesson one: You and your kit

There are several essential bits of kit for mountain biking that we would recommend buying straight away, plus a number of other items that are worth investing in if you get the biking bug.

Essential equipment

1 Bike

The bicycle is a complicated machine, but when it comes to choosing one all you need are some basic measurements – your height and inside leg – and a trip to your local bike shop (LBS).

Yes, you can find some cheap deals online, but it's all too easy for a beginner to make a bad choice and end up with an unsuitable machine. Your LBS will be able to help you find a bike that fits you properly and is suitable for the sort of riding you'll be doing.

Most shops are run by biking enthusiasts who are only too happy to answer all of your questions. John's Bikes in Bath were brilliant at helping us find the right bike for this series and I’m sure your local shop will be able to help you in the same way.

The first question you should ask is' what is the best starter bike for me?'. There are three main types of mountain bike:

1 Rigid: A rigid bike has no suspension. This saves weight, cuts down on maintenance and means there is less to think about when you are learning to ride off-road. But on rocky or rooty tracks your comfort and control will suffer. A rigid bike is always preferable to a bike with poor suspension, so they're a good buy if you can only afford a couple of hundred quid.

2 Hardtail: As the name suggests, this is a bike with a hard – ie. un-suspended – back end and a suspension fork at the front. This type of bike helps you tackle more technical terrain. They're heavier than similarly priced rigid bikes, but cheaper, lighter and have better handling than entry-level full-suspension bikes. For a new bike with a decent budget fork you should be looking at paying upwards of £400. This is the type of bike we’ve chosen for the start of this series.

3 Full-suspension: Full-suspension bikes have suspension at both the front and rear, which improves comfort and helps you ride more technical terrain. The downside is increased cost – it's difficult to find a decent new bike for under £800, except in the sales – and weight, plus more moving parts to break or wear out.

Once you've decided what sort of bike you want and how much you're willing to pay (you may be able to save money if your employer offers a Cycle to Work scheme), the choice is down to personal preference – although checking out the reviews here on BikeRadar and our Buyer's Guide to Mountain Bikes may help you make up your mind.

It's important to buy the right size frame – your LBS should be able to work this out using the measurements you took earlier – and we'd always recommend taking the bike for a test ride. One thing to watch out for on mountain bikes is standover height – the space between the top tube of the frame and your crotch. If you need to dismount in a hurry, you don't want to get tangled up in the frame.

You can tweak several parts of the bike so it fits you better, and the shop should be able to help you with this. See our beginner's guide to setting up your mountain bike for more details.

For the start of this series we'll be riding a Trek 6700 women's hardtail

2 Helmet

Mountain biking is a great sport but it can also be a dangerous one so we would always recommend wearing a helmet. Different brands have different fits so it’s important to try the helmet on before you buy it.

Your helmet should be level on your head and fit fairly snugly. It shouldn’t obscure your vision or cover the tops of your ears, nor should there be any excessive movement if you pull the helmet back and forth. The chin strap should be secure and the straps leading to your chin strap should go either side of your ears and not cover them. If you are unsure, ask questions. For more help, check out our Buyer's Guide to Cycle Helmets.

This mid-range Specialized Tactic helmet is ideal for beginners

3 Gloves

Not all mountain bikers wear gloves but it's a good idea when you're starting out because of the high likelihood of crashing. They also help reduce soreness caused by vibrations from the bike.

You can get fingerless mitts for the summer but for winter riding you’ll find full gloves are much better. There are many brands on the market with different levels of padding and insulation. Again, try them on to make sure they fit – your fingers shouldn't feel cramped and there shouldn't be any bunching of material on the palm.

We'll be trying out these SealSkinz' Ladies All Weather Cycle Gloves over the winter

4 Pump, puncture repair kit and multi-tool

Punctures are inevitable but need not slow you down for long if you're prepared. The trusty pump and puncture repair kit are two important bits of kit not to be forgotten. It's also worth buying a multi-tool so you can carry out basic trailside repairs. Your local bike shop should be able to advise you on what to buy. 

Recommended kit

Although you can ride in just shorts and a T-shirt, there are several items of cycle-specific clothing that are worth considering if you have the budget, because they will make your riding more comfortable and enjoyable.

1 Sunglasses

There’s nothing more annoying than riding along and suddenly being hit in the eye by a fly or some other foreign object – that's why so many riders wear eye protection.

Clear glasses are great because you can wear them all year round and you aren't plunged into darkness when you enter a wooded section, like you can be when wearing sunglasses. Many come with interchangeable lenses, including a yellow one for overcast or poor light conditions.

Spiuk Ventix Carbon Lumiris II glasses have light reactive photochromatic lenses

2 Cycling tops

T-shirts are fine until they get wet – either from rain or your own sweat – when they soon become cold and clammy. A riding-specific top will not only fit better when you're sat on the bike but will also help draw moisture away from your body.

There are tonnes of different clothing ranges out there so shop around depending on how much you’re willing to spend. Just keep in mind that it must fit your body shape and be comfortable when you’re sat on a bike. Make sure you can stretch upwards and the sleeves don’t end up round your armpits, and if you bend over the back doesn’t ride up leaving you with a cold midriff.

The top you go for will depend on the weather. Right now we’re at the crossover between autumn and winter so you’ll want something to keep the chill off and yet not roast you like an early Christmas turkey! It's also a good idea to invest in a decent windproof or waterproof jacket – see our Buyer's Guide to Weatherproof Jackets and Buyer's Guide to Winter Layers.

Ground Effect's Popsicle top is ideal for autumn

3 Cycling shorts/tights

The same rules apply to bottoms as tops. You must be comfortable riding in them so try them on. Everyone has a different body shape so what works for one person may not be what’s best for you.

There are lots of different styles out there, from body-hugging Lycra to more casual baggy shorts and trousers, but remember that a bit of padding can go a long way.

As a beginner your body won’t be used to sitting in a saddle for any length of time. This is something that you’ll get used to but at the start it can be quite uncomfortable. Padded shorts or tights feel odd when you first try a pair on but once you’re sat on the saddle they suddenly become your new best friend.

For more information, see our Buyer's Guide to Lycra Shorts and Buyer's Guide to Baggy Shorts.

For the start of this series we’re wearing Ground Effect Witches Britches knickers

4 Hydration pack/water bottle

It's important to stay hydrated when you're riding so get a water bottle for your bike or, better yet, invest in a hydration pack – effectively a bladder full of water stored in a rucksack with a long straw so you can drink on the move. These packs have a plethora of pockets so there's plenty of room for all your extra bits and pieces – pump and puncture kit, cash, a phone and first aid kit. Check out our Buyer's Guide to Hydration Packs for more information.

Gelert's Hydro Force hydration pack has a water bladder and plenty of pockets for tools, etc

5 Socks

Socks are important for the same reason that gloves are – they help protect your feet from getting blisters and from getting cold. Bike-specific ones will generally have padding in the right places and be made of breathable materials that help carry moisture away from your skin. Some are even waterproof, so you can wade through a stream and still have dry feet.

Ground Effect Toe Rags are great in dry conditions

We'll don waterproof SealSkinz Lightweight Socklets when conditions go downhill

You’re now up to speed on all the basics, so go out there and see what kit suits you. Learn from the experts, ask lots of questions and get ready for next month’s article, when we'll tell you what else to check before you go out riding and how to cope with your first puncture.

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Beginner’s guide to mountain biking, part 2

Last month we showed you the basic equipment you'll need to get started in mountain biking. Now you’ve got your kit – whether you’ve bought new or second-hand, hired or borrowed it – the next essential step is to get to grips with it all. 

Mountain bikes have a lot of moving parts and they're designed to be ridden across rough terrain in all kinds of weather, so it's inevitable that sooner or later things will start to break or wear out.

There are plenty of good books out there about cycle repairs and maintenance, but if you prefer a more hands-on approach, a workshop course is a brilliant starting point. It'll help you learn what each part of your bike does, as well as what to do when parts go wrong out on the trail and how to maintain them.

We took part in a great beginner's maintenance course with Paul Peet from Afan MTB, and there are many other companies out there which should be able to help you out.

It felt good to learn the proper names of bike parts instead of just pointing at them or calling them ‘that spinning part there’, and you'll feel more at ease with your bike when you know how it actually works, how to fix it and why it’s important to maintain it.

We'll be covering more advanced topics later on in this series, but for now we'll focus on one of the most common problems for mountain bikers: punctures.

Toolkit

The first thing we learnt was how important it is to take a small toolkit with you every time you ride. As a bare minimum, you should pack a set of Allen keys, two tyre levers, a puncture repair kit, pump and at least one spare inner tube.

When it comes to inner tubes, there are two valve types – Schrader (also known as "car type") and Presta. Some pumps will only work with one type, and some wheels only have rim holes big enough for the narrower Presta valves, so it's important to check what type you have before buying spares.

Most mountain bikes come with Schrader valves like those found on car tyres

The narrower Presta valve also has its fans – make sure you buy the right tubes for your wheels

How to deal with a puncture at the trailside

Punctures come when you least expect them, and often at the worst possible time – like when you're plummeting down a steep hill or pinballing off rocks.

Sometimes they're caused by thorns or broken glass, but more often they're what are called 'pinch punctures'. These occur when you hit an obstacle – often a square-edged step or rock – so hard that the impact forces your tyre and inner tube against the metal rim of the wheel. When this happens, the two edges of the rim rip parallel holes in the tube – this is why pinch punctures are also known as 'snakebites'.

The easiest way to deal with a puncture on a mountain bike ride is simply to fit a new inner tube. That way you can take the damaged tube home with you and mend it somewhere warm and dry, rather than having to scrabble around with chalk, glue and patches at the trailside, often in the rain. To give you more confidence in changing a punctured inner tube, make sure you try it out at home first before you hit the trails.

Step 1: Move to somewhere as safe and dry as possible. Turn your bike upside down – make sure you remove any extra kit you’ve got on your handlebars, such as lights and cycle computers, before you do this. If you have V-brakes rather than disc brakes, you may find it helps to let the air out of your tyres at this stage.

Step 2: Remove the wheel. On most mountain bikes, simply flip the quick-release lever open and turn it anti-clockwise until the wheel is loose enough that you can pull it out. On older bikes with wheel nuts, you'll need to use a spanner to loosen them – so make sure you keep one in your tookit. If you're taking the rear wheel off, shift into the smallest sprocket on the rear cassette (the collection of cogs attached to the rear wheel) first or you'll find the chain gets in the way. If you use V-brakes, you'll have to disconnect the straddle cable across the top of the arms before pulling the wheel out.

Step 3: Once the wheel has been removed, if you have disc brakes, make sure you don't squeeze the levers – without the wheel to stop them, the pads will push out too far. Remove the punctured tube's valve cap and depress the valve to let out all the air.

Step 4: Use one of your tyre levers and, at the opposite side of the rim to the valve, push the curve firmly between the edge of the rim and the tyre.

Step 5: Lift the tyre away from the rim and use the hooked end of the tyre lever to attach to a spoke, securing it. 

  Step 6: Push your second tyre lever into the gap you’ve just created and use it to prise the tyre from the rim. To give you extra leverage, push the tyre lever backwards between each spoke and continue on round the rim, removing one side of the tyre.

Step 7: Find the valve again; you’ll need to push this out from the rim. Some valves are held in place by a threaded nut. You’ll need to unscrew and remove this in order to push the valve out from the rim. Make sure you put the nut somewhere safe though, as it can easily get lost.

Step 8: Pull the old inner tube from the tyre and separate the tyre from the rim. You may need to use the tyre lever to get the other side of the tyre away from the rim.

Step 9: Slowly and carefully run the back of your hand around the inside of the tyre to check for sharp objects – there could be more than one – that may have caused your puncture. Left in place, they could puncture your new inner tube. In the case of a pinch puncture you won't find anything – look out for the telltale parallel holes. If you find a thorn, pull it out from the side it went in – you may find it useful to carry tweezers,

Step 10: A useful tip gleaned from the maintenance course at Afan MTB was to put a small amount of talcum powder into your tyre and gently turn it round so that it forms a protective layer. Then tip out any excess powder. This will help prevent your new inner tube from being pinched when putting the tyre back onto the rim. This won't always be possible at the trailside, but once you've done it once, it should last several tube changes.

Step 11: It’s important that you fit the tyre back onto the rim in the correct direction. Many tyres have direction-specific tread patterns, and fitting them the wrong way round could reduce traction or braking power. Even on tyres that can be run both ways round, you'll have worn the tread in a specific way. Check on the tyre for an arrow, or similar, which indicates the direction that the wheel rotates. The arrow needs to point in the direction of travel, so line it up on the rim with the arrow pointing forwards. To make sure you've got the wheel the right way round, look for the disc rotor, which should always be on the left ('non-drive side'), or, on the rear wheel, the cassette, which should always be on the right ('drive side').

Step 12:  Place one side of the tyre back onto the rim. Take your new inner tube and put a few pumps of air into it to give it some structure, then place it inside the tyre, making sure it's not twisted. Turn the wheel so that the valve hole in the rim is at the top and push the inner tube's valve stem through the hole. If there's a nut on the valve stem, tighten it so the tube is held securely in place.

Step 13. Start to work the second edge of the tyre back onto the rim.  This will get more difficult as you go round the tyre. Use the tyre levers to help work the last part back onto the rim. If you’re struggling, another helpful tip learnt from the maintenance course at Afan MTB was to apply a small amount of Vaseline around the outer edge of the tyre to help you slide it back onto the rim. Once you’ve got the tyre back on, check all the way around to make sure it’s secure and the inner tube isn’t protruding or pinched between the tyre and the rim.

Step 15. Inflate your tube slowly to start with, making sure that it doesn’t inflate unevenly in any part of the tyre. If it does, this indicates that the inner tube has been pinched or twisted. To resolve this, you may have to deflate the inner tube and take one side of the tyre off. 

Step 16. Re-attach the wheel to your bike using the nuts or the quick-release mechanism – make sure to fully tighten these – and inflate to a pressure within the range stated on the tyre's sidewall. If you're re-attaching the rear wheel, you'll need to push or pull the rear derailleur out of the way in order to get the wheel axle into the holes (dropouts) built into the frame. Make sure you put the chain back onto the smallest cog. If you use V-brakes, make sure to reattach the straddle cable.

Step 17: Replace the valve cap and check that the wheel spins freely without catching on any part of your bike. Once you're happy that it’s spinning freely, turn your bike the correct way round. 

Step 18: It’s important to check your brakes are working. Holding the bike so that the wheel you’ve just reattached is off the ground, spin the wheel and apply the brakes. If they aren't working you may need to re-align the wheel in the frame/fork by loosening and re-tightening the nuts or quick-release skewer. Once you’re happy that your brakes are working and the wheel is spinning freely, you’re good to ride.

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Beginner’s guide to mountain biking, part 3